Writing this during a time of difficulty and uncertainty does not escape me. It only makes my job as a writer more necessary. To those impacted, to those in fear, and to those witnessing first hand . . . this goes out to you. The world deserves to know the Middle East for it’s beauty and soul. Without stepping off of a plane, too much is left to naive consumption of media.

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If the world had a center, I believe it would be Dubai. Mapmakers seem to think this is true, so why shouldn’t I? Dubai is somewhere I always knew I would end up traveling to eventually. It’s that mid-way stopover on a long overseas flight, flashy conference location or long weekend get-away. In each equation, Dubai was inevitable, yet never prioritized. And after visiting a few weeks ago, I’ve pondered over why? It can’t be as simple as saying that Dubai is one of a kind, even though I know this to be true. Because one of a kind makes it sound like Dubai has one identity to be discovered, and that could not be further from the truth.

My primary reason for travel the other weekend was to attend a Workshop hosted by Chapters International at North London Collegiate School on Documentation and Questioning in Inquiry Learning. In many places, after a day of learning and collaborating with likeminded educators, one might be inclined to hunker down, rest, and prepare for the following day’s ventures. However, nighttime in Dubai is when the city comes to life. It’s when the temperature outside is the most pleasing and when the energy off the streets begins to pick-up and quite honestly, its when many things begin to open or if not open, at least not be close to closing.

*Night 1*

We arrived off an afternoon flight from Addis, stepping into the lobby of our hotel right at the peak of the afternoon. At check-in we were handed a paper which listed complimentary rides across the city. For weary travels nothing is more inviting then not needing to decide where or what you’re going to do the first night you arrive in a new city. The answer was simple- take the first bus from the Business Bay area into Downtown to walk through the famous Dubai Mall.

Downtown Dubai is what I pictured, and perhaps what most picture when they think of Dubai. Walking through the mall, you go past iconic locations such as the Dubai Waterfall and the indoor ice skating rink. You meet face to face with sharks in a large water tank outside the entrance for the Dubai Aquarium, a natural photo op. And if you’re keen to keep exploring, you can find yourself transported from Mall, to Chinatown as the decor changes and food selection invites with rich asian cuisine.

However what I didn’t picture is the collective identity of the Mall, a place perhaps built as a center of socialization, connection, and with celebration towards diversity rather than an isolating shopping experience. A place where you can hear the languages of the world being spoken, and taste the cuisine of far away countries. A hub destination filled with people, like myself, here, now for any dozen of reasons or purposes.

When we first stepped foot inside Dubai Mall, the crowds were nothing crazy. It was busy, sure, but not push past shoulders to get around crowded. But as the night progressed, more and more people began to rush-in for Friday fun, and close to 8pm-ish we were in search of an exit- any exit. The exit we happened on, by chance was not just any exit, it’s the one most would likely be taking in a planned mall trip situation.

We exited straight out to a gorgeous boardwalk area, right outside the Burj Kalifa. Looking up at the Burj Kalifa, the tallest building in the world, honestly I did not feel as small as I thought I would. My first thought may have even been, is this as tall as it gets? But that’s because everything is so built up in Dubai. You’re surrounded by tall buildings tattooed with property groups, growing up from the desert much faster than trees in a forest. The evening was concluded by a stroll along the canal, a walk down the red carpet outside the Dubai Opera House, and a pleasant meal along the city streets.

The above description was my experience on my first night in Dubai. Its perhaps Dubai’s “core.” The “one night” Dubai itinerary, one might say. But it’s not Dubai. Or at least, not the full picture.

*Night 2*

Our second night, we were advised to go to the “Old Dubai” area where gold shops line the streets and market vendors are eager to lure you in to to buy from their selections of spices, scarfs and other specialties. We asked our at the hotel lobby where the best place to get dropped off by a taxi was and she navigated on our map to her top location in Deira. When we arrived, it just looked like a street of gold shops, or souks. I recall even saying, “why did she pick here?” But no sooner did this thought cross my mind, it was out and floating away into the Saturday evening air. The streets began to narrow, and lights began to beckon towards one sole pathway.

Visiting right before the start of Ramadan, the holiest month for Muslims, Ramadan night markets were beginning to establish their annual presence in the city. We toured our way through vibrant market stalls to an opening where music echoed off of food trucks in the small open square. The energy and joy were contagious, a feeling so lively you think you can sit and stay in this trance forever. But as the musician packed his bags, our wandering feet continued towards the mellow glow of Dubai Creek. Traditional boats, Abras, gather at the creeks edge. We boarded one and headed to the other side.

This side of the old Dubai area is the Al Fahidi Historical Neighborhood. A place restored to it’s traditional architecture, yet modernized to house a variety of shops and restaurants, such as popular international chains of Chipotle and Starbucks. Less busy and flashy than the market side, what the Al Fahidi Historical Neighborhood had to offer was a calm celebration of culture and past, rather than than the celebration of “now” occurring on the other side of the creek. We strolled, we admired, feeling like we could walk forever in the tranquil scenery that lay before us. That was until we stopped and discovered that the bliss of the outside walkways of this district at night are countered by the blasting music and lights of the inside chain restaurants. McDonalds looked more like a fancy night club, than a fast food stop for a quick burger. This contrast is something I’ll always remember- globalized trends encompassed by historical buildings.

*Night 3*

As you likely know, Dubai lies directly on the Persian (Arabian) Gulf. What you may not know, is the extent to which the sea and Dubai are one, a skillful intersection of land and sea, carefully designed to be a destination in itself. One of the participants in the workshop who resides in Dubai, recommended going to Kite Beach for the sunset. This is precisely what we did.

Getting out of the taxi, just before the sun began to fall beneath some clouds on it’s way down. We came for the sunset, but it was clear that we could have spent our entire day here. A busy boardwalk, of active runners, bikers, and roller skaters, bring the place alive. It seems every wind on the walkway linking this unique beach area could lead to a new adventure. We passed food trucks, an inflatable water park, volleyball courts, and giant trampolines that strap people in to fly to the sky. Eventually the pathway came to a conclusion, but my legs weren’t ready to conclude their quest for adventure. So we continued on. Past the famous Jumeirah Burj Al Arab, and along a sidewalk beginning to wane in lighting. I guess I thought we would be able to keep walking, all the way to the Ain Dubai that I could see from a map’s perspective was just around the corner. Except, it wasn’t. So eventually, we hesitantly took a ride.

It turns out this was an important decision, because 20 minutes later driving time we arrived in JBR Beach. An area with a slight carnival feel to it. Everything from souvenir booths, to upscale restaurants, to fancy cars on display, this area couldn’t help but trick you into thinking you are more awake then you actually are. We didn’t spend long, because after two days of workshops and adventuring in, I was feeling myself needing a proper rest. But I’m glad I saw it, one more piece of beauty. One more image to build my schema to ensure the picture isn’t singular.

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We’ve all heard the quote, “a picture is worth one thousand words.” However, I could put one thousand pictures to accompany this blog post, and I still don’t believe it would tell the complete story. My experience alone does not tell the complete story. If I had lived just one of any of these nights, I would have been left with a very different understanding of Dubai. So I encourage you, always seek more nights if you want just a sliver of the story.

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